Tear it up, fix it, repeat: Shovelhead 4 Speed Saga Part 2

Now it is time to really tear this thing down. I took it over to my buddy Pat’s house. Pat is giving me the rebuild lesson and at least his garage is halfway air conditioned. The bad news is that his garage is not quite lit up enough for picture taking and my camera only seems to have an automatic flash setting, so I had to fight to get decent pictures and even had to digitally brightened a few.
On the bench.

Remove the key from the mainshaft with dikes, useless you can’t find them then safety wire pliers work.

Only two nuts are left holding the support plate.

There are a couple of little shims under there here.

It appears that the countershaft O-ring is leaking and may be most of my problem.

Pull the clutch release arm.

Break all the kick bolts, but don’t pull the cover yet. I think I got ahead of myself on that one. The lid needs to come off first to lock the transmission to remove the nuts on both shafts.

Pull the rachet lid.

That thing seriously didn’t want to come off. One of the dowel rods from the case was stuck in the lid. I’ll have to clean those and red loctite them back into the case.

Don’t lose these bushings.

Lock the transmission in two gears at once.

Unbend the tab washer on the sprocket nut.

Special homemade deep socket. LEFT HANDED THREADS!!!

Sprocket nut, sprocket and tab washer off.

I was planning on using this super nut set-up.

The threads are rough and will need a re-work so we couldn’t really mock it up, so we measured.

Yeah, not going to fit as is. When we go to put things together, we may try to put the clutch hub back on see if the support plate can be spaced to clear the super nut and the clutch hub.

Pull the kick cover. This will need to be broken down and the kickshaft hole will most likely get new bushings and a counterbore and seal. The kickshaft was the worst leak I had until recently.

Pull the rod/slinger/bearing out together and bag them.

With the transmission still locked loosen this nut, but don’t take it off.

Whack it with a hammer and see if that will release the kicker gear off the taper.(That didn’t work.)

Try a gear puller. (That didn’t work.)

Try some heat. (That didn’t work.)

Hold some tension with a prybar on the still hot gear and whack it with a bigger hammer.

That worked!

Make sure you know where this key is.

If you leave it in the keyway and pull on the next gear, then you’ll mess up this bushing.

Unbend another tab washer. Well don’t seem to have a socket to fit that nut so we will leave it on there for now. You can still get to a bare case with this nut still on the shaft.

Take this set screw out.

Drive the shift fork shaft out.

Inspect the shift forks.

That’s ugly.

Put it back in to see what’s hitting wrong. It wasn’t shimmed correctly.

The dog holes in 4th gear jacked a bit, too.

Remove speedo fitting.

Unbend countershaft tab washer and remove the nut.

This funny washer gets jammed up a bit.

Remove it.

Drift out the countershaft.

It’s worn out. Add that to the list.

There’s a trick to it, but I don’t know what it is exactly, but this comes out all at once.

Dang, old style roller bearings. That sucks, but now I know.

The corner of this dog has been slammed a bit. I’ll get a new one.

Same here. It’s first gear so it should be okay.

Four screws hold this plate and you will need an impact driver to get them out. Don't loose the little tab when it comes apart.

With the plate out. Give the output side a good tap, but you can’t drive it out yet.

This seal was jacked, too.

That tap over by an inch or two exposes the circlip that hold third gear in place. You have to work this circlip off to get the mainshaft out.

Once the circlip is off the shaft, you can slide the mainshaft out of the transmission. This picture shows the shaft about halfway out. When the mainshaft is fully installed the ring groove shown with the circlip is to the right side (picture perspective) of the large gear. The large gear(3rd) will not pass by the hump in the case.