CT Junk Muffler and KO Airbox Build

So the evening didn't start out very well. One exhaust is broke in two and the other one is rattling with rust, dented, and now has a heat shield bolt broke off in a boss. I'll probably be ordering a special Chinese exhaust for it.


On to the airbox, it fits like this. I actually think the easier way to install this without taking the carb and intake off is to undo the front motor mount bolt and rotate the motor then slap the entire assembled airbox on it.


The airbox parts diagram is a little squirrely to read, because there was a few changes between KO and K1 configurations. I thought I had this figured out when I ordered the parts for it, but that was a long time ago.





This is a rubber snorkel that doesn't seem to do much other than go into the frame to keep the rain out. Looking at this now I am concerned that my sparkplug wire coupling will interfere with it a bit, but we'll hope for the best.





This boot goes from the airbox to the carb. I seem to have misplaced the clamp for carb intake for this, too.


For some reason I got these gaskets for the end caps, it seems that all that are available now are full rubber plates with just a little hole for the bolt.


The o-ring gaskets are a pain to center for sure.


Tube through the air filter.


Into the airbox.


Long screw and acorn nut through the middle.


That's going to look good.

08 Dodge Grand Caravan Front Brakes

Yep. The front brakes are grinding, First thing to do is get the front end off the ground. I use a floorjack under the A-arm mounts and then jack stands under the regular scissor jack spots under the frame. DO NOT work on a vehicle while only using a hydraulic jack, if a seal fails that jack and car are going down.

Take the wheel off.


Furthermore, I throw the wheel under the body, too. Your having a bad day if you drop a car, but this might help it from being worse.


Next, find a 21mm wrench or socket, for some reason all have is a deep socket and 12 point combo wrench in this size.


Two bolts hold the caliper holder on.


Very tight, but I don't have an impact socket and driver to fit where I need, so big hammer it is.


Once it's loose you don't need a hammer.


I have this short bucket ready to hold the caliper, so it doesn't hang from the hose.


Here's the second bolt holding things together.


Off the car and safely held.


The rotor should pull right off, but of course mine was rusty and needed a few good whacks with the hammer. The pads will pull right out of the caliper as well.

Here's the metal to metal part.


Douse it with brake cleaner.


No fancy tool to get the piston compressed, just a 6 inch C-clamp.


There is an inboard and outboard pad.


The difference is not as obvious as the illustrations, but the clips and tabs are a bit different.




The boots and guide pins are looking good and still lubed so that's good.


Pop out and replace all four clips. There are differences between the inboard and outboard on these, too.


New clip.


Lube up the tabs on the pads.


Install pads.


Clean the goo off the new rotor.


Install the rotor.


Install the caliper holder with the two large bolts.


Torque to 125 ft*lbs. Yes that's a lot, but by the book.


Install wheel and tire. Snug the lugnuts in a criss-cross pattern.

Then replace the brakes on the other side.

Put the van on the ground and fully torque the lugnuts to 100 ft*lbs.


Pump the brake pedal until it gets hard before you try and move the vehicle.

CT70 Throttle Build Redux

As the gentlemen at lilhonda.com were so quick to point out. I built my throttle wrong. I put the stopper that threads on to the end of the cable housing on backwards. So it needs to come apart. I learned a few more things though. I thought the grip would need to come off at least some to get to the screw, but a fresh rubber grip can be rolled back a bit no problem. I had to cut off the age harden 40 year old grips last time. This also means that a new throttle grip could be installed on the throttle tube before the throttle tube is attached to the bar. That might be easier next time.


This thing is wrong and it went together easy enough, but it sure didn't want to come apart. The squared off part should fall out of the slot, but this was put in backwards.


So I had the threaded end going directly in the threaded hole.


It should go in the long way to the threaded hole.


It should look like this.


Not like this.


I flipped this grommet over, too.
 

I had greased the parts a bit last time, but I decided to really grease up all the parts this time. Here's the properly put together and greased throttle operation.

CT70 Right Bar and Throttle build

Simple, right?


Horn button wire starts here.


Threads out here.


Throttle cable starts from this end. The end with the big round dot and thread end goes in.


It comes out here and this stopper piece threads on.


Drop the stopper back in here.


The collar slides down over and the hole in the collar lines up with the hole in the underside of the bar with the another threaded hole in the stopper.


The slider goes into the bar slot and the leaded end goes into the slider.


The throttle tube slides on top. A special reduced head screw goes into the hole and slot of the tube. I missed the picture of that going in.


Time for a function check. Works good.

It's time to do the grip. It's dang tight. I got half way on, but then stuck and took it off again. I tried to heat it, but that made it too pliable.


Finally I used some tire mount lube, both my knees and hands together, and few heartfelt prayers. Piece of cake sorta.


I should have installed the button when I was putting the throttle in place, but I got it there.


A little long screw here.


Fresh rubber grommet here.


Lever and pilot screw go on.


Right bar goes on, hopefully to stay.


I just posed the seat in place. I don't want to mount the seat yet, it will just get in the way of other things needing to in and on.