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Tuesday, May 10, 2011

CT 70 Splitting Cases

Two bolts hold the engine in the frame.
First one.


Other one.




Out.



This is the last case bolt to break torque on.



I pulled one wrist pin keeper and the wrist pin and piston come off.



Here are the right side cover and left side case bolts. I have list of the bolt sizes and they will be replaced with stainless socket head bolts. (This was way too early to take out the case bolts.)






Here's the right side cover off.


Clutch stuff.






Oil screen is clean.



Shifter stuff.



Camchain tensioner stuff. There should be a metal rod and a rubber end in there some where to.



Now to build the box to hold it.



It seems every OHV single engine builder has one, but no one knows how big they should be so I figured 4 inches by 5 inches on the inside. 5x5 would have been okay too.





I bought a new bigger impact driver, but the inner stator plate screws still won't bundge. I should have gotten these while the engine was still in the frame.



I decided to try the clutch side. I was figuring using the penny on ribbon to lock the clutch basket and primary gears. I couldn't get it to lock, but it didn't matter.



I think I screwed something up working on the wrong screws. All this mess locked up the clutch basket.



These are the first screws that need to come out. They should have come out with the engine in the frame.



I have to quit buying Harbor Freight tools.



Finally off.



Unbend the tab washer.



Special socket gets the castellated nut off.





This is some nasty sludged up yuck.



Okay, this is a mess. The clutch basket should come off as an assembled unit.





When I impacted the wrong screws, and the snap ring came off and this got bent up. I need a new one.



The rest of the clutch.



Missing one spring it seems.



It might in here somewhere.



Snap ring on the drive gear.



Loosen this bolt and disconnect this spring.





I didn't get a good picture off the shifter mechanism, but I think I want to replace this spring, just in case.



Back to the stator plate. Stubborn, stubborn, stubborn.



Barely got this one out, but it's out.



Still stubborn with no screws left. I finally got it off, and used p-oil on it, too.



Two o-rings under here, too.



Seal in the middle, o-ring on the outside.



Here's the rod and rubber pad on the tensioner.



Plug over the shift drum.



Shift drum nut.



Cases split!



One more screw holds the other end of the shift drum.



This coating seems out.



Gears and shiftforks look good.




Monday, May 9, 2011

CT 70 Head and Valve Teardown

Big boy takes off the tappet caps.


The right side cover comes off with screws, since the long bolt is already gone.





If you look really close you can see the threads inside rocker arm pins.




I forgot the thread pitch, but at this point plenty of bolts are laying around. The footpeg mount bolt fits.




Screw it in and pull it.







Okay, I should have pulled the tappet adjuster screw and lock nut, before the rocker arm pin, but it still comes apart okay.







Now the valve spring compressor.








When the spring pressure is off, then the keepers come out.







Here's the exhaust valve components. I need to check all the free lengths on these springs, to see if I can re-use them.




Exhaust valve is dirty, but seems reuseable. I'll see how they lap out.







The pad on the rocker is terrible. I'll need a new one.




There's a collar one and seal the exhaust side only.




Bag and tag.




On to the intake side, here's the rocker arm pin.




Intake rocker is smoked, too.




Cam falls out.




Seems good enough to be re-used.








Here's the intake valve guide. It doesn't take the collar and seal, like the exhaust.




Exhaust valve guide.




Exhaust valve seems to be useable.