Tear it up, fix it, repeat: February 2015

Monday, February 23, 2015

Primary and Clutch issues(TLDNR)

Sorry no pictures really. This was supposed to be simple and I have done most of this stuff before. Follow the links.

So got a new front sprocket to replaced the stripped one. CraigB1960 sent me a nice alternator rotor to use. I got a new CCI(I thought was Taiwan Ted's when I bought it from eBay) clutch hub to replace my bad one. I checked the acorn nut on the front primary it's not too shallow to work.

The new hub didn't fit quite right with the woodruff key in the mainshaft keyway. I bought another key from the local independent shop HD Part number 37523-15A. It's suppose to be a bit different than standard woodruff keys. I already had the correct key, so I filed and filed my key until the taper on the shaft and clutch hub fit together nice with the key in place.

Installed the new motor main seal, alt rotor, rotor cover, and motor plate.

So up with the hub, long bearings, adjustable retainer(use A position on this one), clutch frictions and steels, new springs, and pressure plates. Belt and front pulley go on.

Adjust clutch screw. Kick it off. Success. Running good, clutch is working, no grabbing, and easy to find neutral. Oh geez, I forgot to put the primary belt guard back on. It should have gone on before the hub. It holds the front support off my chain guard, too. Pull everything back apart. Oh yeah, I'm glad I bought the 5 pack of clutch hub tab washers.

The hub came off without a puller and I am a bit concerned about that fit. I will put some dye-chem on the shaft and install it again and see how good the fit really is.

I noticed the transmission is leaking from the mainshaft area. I pulled the motorplate and bearing support plate to look around. The front studs that came with the motor plate are crap and the threads totally pull off of the one. They had been a bit suspect, but I thought they were okay. One of the two seals I used between the mainshaft and high gear was almost popped out. I used my finger nail to get it out, if that says anything. Just like before. I'm going back with one 5 speed seal next time.

Ed advised me to look behind the chain sprocket, but I realized that the socket Lummie built me was 3/4 inch drive and I didn't own an adapter. So I went to get an adapter and then drove around looking for studs for the motor plate.

A day's work and I'm actually farther behind than I thought I was when I started.

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Studs

My last two searches for simple studs have been very frustrating to say the least. The computer jockeys pretending to be parts counter men have flat worn me out with, "what's it go on?" That's like needing to know what car a bolt or nut fits on. You spec the bolt by size/pitch/length and get what you need. Anywho, I finally found a real partsman that found what I needed this time. I managed to back track from the part number to find a good listing of sizes and part numbers. Part numbers work for just about all the idiots behind the counter. Enjoy this if you need it.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/355-359_Sec17_Part1.pdf

2015 OKC Motorcycle Show and Swap

Cattleman's breakfast with a good group of folks.

Always a decent show in the parking lot.

Revchong's ironhead representing.

Mike Antinoro's Pan, Knuck, and Slab Shovel.

This one is pretty cool. It's a Twinkie that was all WLA'ed out and used in the Captain America movie. The flat heads are a bit cheezy and the bike is way bigger than an WLA, but overall making a modern bike look okay for a movie I think it turned out okay.

Here's a real WLA; it is a 1951 so it's not truly a WWII bike. I'm not sure if the bigger civilian 45 fenders would have been stock on a 1951 WLA or not.

There's always a debate on the Shovelhead.us forum about what a titled frame is worth/should cost/willing to pay. I'm not an expert and Paul T says this frame has a previous repair.