I still need the holes for the wires to exit the bars. That's about straight down from my bars in place.
Off come the bars.
Got to figure out the volt meter placement.
Drill some exit holes.
Drill the holes for the voltmeter wires.
The switchbox hole isn't quite right either.
Make that bigger.
That should fit just fine.
Mocked up.
Well, I was hoping to get by without slotted exit holes, but that's going to be too tight for all the wires. I think I should have gone with 18 gauge wire and not 16 gauge, but I always try to over build. It will probably bite me again when I go to solder on the switches.
Cut off dremel wheel.
Got to clean that up. No sharp corners.
Passable.
I almost forgot, I need to make another hole for the brake light wires.
Okay, here was a goofy thing I did. I bought right angle spade terminals, because I knew stock Kawasaki wires used those 90 degree terminals. Well duh, that's because the wire actually go backwards to the box. As shown below.
Well, normal straight terminals will do better for my needs. Something like this.
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Better make that hole.
Centerpunch.
Drill.
Deburr and clean.
Now back to the left side of the bars. All these go through the bars.
But not through the same hole.
I couldn't find an earplug on a string, so I tried this. I used a piece of pink paracord and taped the bundle to the end. On the other end I made a knot to catch the air.
This is how I blew the cord with the wires down the tube.
It worked.
Here's the knot that did the work.
Wires through.
A bit of fishing on this end though.
Zipties so I don't accidentally pull out the wires working on something else.
Fishing two wires through the brake light wire hole was tough. I had to pull those wires through like this.
Now can I get the rest through with the first two in place? Success.
That's all of them.
Enough work for the day. Ziptie these down and work on it later.
hey would you be able to tell me where you got that voltage gauge from?
ReplyDeleteKuryakyn brand. Available a lot of places online.
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