Internal wiring for Speed Switches on the Springer Bars

Time to run the wires on this pig. I like having good distinct colors for each of my wires, but that's not easy to come by. I found an eBay source that sells some great packets though. I figured that I could use the same color on both sides of each switch on anything in the bars. Let's face it, there is going to be much of a troubleshoot on wires you can see anyway. Here's my sketch for my new wiring plan.


I still need the holes for the wires to exit the bars. That's about straight down from my bars in place.


Off come the bars.


Got to figure out the volt meter placement.


Drill some exit holes.


Drill the holes for the voltmeter wires.


The switchbox hole isn't quite right either.


Make that bigger.


That should fit just fine.


Mocked up.


Well, I was hoping to get by without slotted exit holes, but that's going to be too tight for all the wires. I think I should have gone with 18 gauge wire and not 16 gauge, but I always try to over build. It will probably bite me again when I go to solder on the switches.


Cut off dremel wheel.




Got to clean that up. No sharp corners.


Passable.


I almost forgot, I need to make another hole for the brake light wires.


Okay, here was a goofy thing I did. I bought right angle spade terminals, because I knew stock Kawasaki wires used those 90 degree terminals. Well duh, that's because the wire actually go backwards to the box. As shown below.


Well, normal straight terminals will do better for my needs. Something like this.


Better make that hole.


Centerpunch.


Drill.


Deburr and clean.


Now back to the left side of the bars. All these go through the bars.


But not through the same hole.


I couldn't find an earplug on a string, so I tried this. I used a piece of pink paracord and taped the bundle to the end. On the other end I made a knot to catch the air.





This is how I blew the cord with the wires down the tube.


It worked.


Here's the knot that did the work.


Wires through.


A bit of fishing on this end though.


Zipties so I don't accidentally pull out the wires working on something else.


Fishing two wires through the brake light wire hole was tough. I had to pull those wires through like this.





Now can I get the rest through with the first two in place? Success.


That's all of them.


Enough work for the day. Ziptie these down and work on it later.

Primary Put Together

Alright, time to make some progress on the shovelhead.

The motor is in loosely with no primary between the motor and the transmission. The transmission is still bolted in tight.  To get everything lined up, I tightened all the transmission plate bolts and loosened all the nuts on the transmission studs.  This will let my transmission move while we work.


The next goal is to loose the front motor bolts and torque down the rear mount bolts. For whatever reason the Delkron cases and this frame don't really allow proper torquing of the rear nuts so you have to do something like this.


The next thing I did was check the gap under the front motor mounts to see if shims are needed. They haven't been required before with these cases in this frame, but there's no reason not to check. I couldn't get a 0.0015 feeler gage in the gap so I will say we are good to go.


We can actually torque these now.


Now tighten the head bolts to the top mount.  Again, I don't have the torque adapter I need to do this. So we just tightened them good and tight. Make sure the shims between the frame and mount fit up nice and tight.


This one is an easy torque.


This is where we had to back up. I forgot that my regulator mount goes under the front of the motor. We also looked for like a half hour trying to find my new regulator only to realize that I left it at Longbow Customs when we were working on it there.


We'll just put this on like this for now and I'll put the regulator on when I get it back.


Now on to the motor plate. It's my understanding with a stock inner primary with a chain, you bolt the loose transmission to the inner primary and bolted down engine. The belt setup is different, because you have to adjust tension of the belt before you bolt the plate down tight.


We just snugged everything for now.


The top belt guard goes on before the clutch shell. We had a heck of time getting it all to line up for some reason. Then the clutch shell and the 52 long bearings.


Retainer plate next.


Clutch plate stack up.


Tada! Pressure plates and springs. The pushrod screw is adjusted, but we'll need to adjust the nuts on the studs once we are actually ready to get this thing running again. Engine sprocket on and belt in place. Torque the four nuts and fifth stud of the transmission and we are done for the day.


A huge shout out to this guy. RevChong spent most of Saturday hanging out and helping. The moral support was the biggest part. I have really been uninspired to get this bike back together for way too long.

Jeff Williams 20th Annual Oklahoma City Bike Show and Swapmeet: Part 7

Jeff Williams 20th Annual Oklahoma City Bike Show and Swapmeet: Part 6