CT70 - K0 Top of the Clutch and Right Cover

Time to finish the clutch and get the rightside cover on.

I still need to install 20, 19, 3,  2, 27(X3), and 28 to finish the clutch up. The washer(21) wasn't there when I took things apart so I didn't put one back in.



Special tab washer(20).


Castellated nut(19).


There is a special tool to hold the clutch basket to torque the castellated nut, but I don't have it. I could use my penny-on-a-ribbon to lock the gears, but the Clymers manual suggested using an extension in the wristpin bushing to hold things still.


Special socket for the special nut.


Torque to about 30 ft*lbs.


Bend up a tab of the tab washer.


Gasket(3) and Outer Clutch Cover(2). Finding the right position for the gasket is a trick.


Getting it all aligned on clutch is a trick, too.


I tore up one of these screws(27) and I thought I bought more from Dratv.com, but I didn't. Luckily I found some allen-style replacements at Ace Hardware.


Drop the bearing(28) into place and now the clutch is done.


Now the right side cover can finally go on.


Clutch cam plate(5) goes on.


Clutch lever(4) goes on the shift shaft splines and into the cam plate knotch.


"Oil through"(10) and spring(11).


Those slide into the middle hole.


Ball retainer(9) and spring(6).


The spring is under the ball retainer.


Dowel pins(19) for the outside cover.


One here.


Other one here.


New oil screen. I probably could have cleaned and reused the old one, but what the heck.


Slides into the case near the oil pump.


Gasket(2) in place.


Right side cover goes on. I already assembled 1, 14, 12, 18, 8, and 7. Check out the bottom of this post.


Two long screws(17) and six shorter screws(16).


Long ones go here.


Put the shorter ones everywhere else. Tighten all in a crisscross pattern.


Whoa. This one bottoms out before it's tight. It's sharing a threaded hole with this case bolt. I guess my stack up tolerances got me or maybe that wasn't the correct length case bolt that I used.


At any rate a little time on the belt sander and this bolt is now the perfect length.


I thought I had a decent dipstick(3), but I didn't really. The stock is broken(right) and the junkyard special is nasty dirty(left).


Use the broken on for now and soak the better one in dawn and see how it cleans up.


Flip the motor over and install the shift shaft seal.


This is a "special 1/2 inch drive 15mm deep well seal driver."


Perfect.


Flip again and install the kickshaft seal with the same tool.


The right side is mostly done. The piston, cylinder, and head should be next.

CT70 - KO Centrifugal Clutch Build up

Time get most of this clutch built up. The manuals I have for this leave a lot to be desired. There are too many versions of centrifugal and manual clutchs on 50cc to 90cc Honda's and every manual covers all of them in unsteady and unclear detail. I also believe that the CT70K0 is a one model version too. So it took a few tries to come up with this, the pictures are a little out of chronological order, but as presented should be correct to do it right the first time. If you know more than me and spot a screw up, please let me know.

The big gear goes on the transmission input shaft.


Double check the part number on the snap ring.


Install snap ring.



How the clutch should look. ???!!!!????


This view should help more.


This gear(17) goes on the crank. The smaller gear part up.



I never disassembled parts 1, 10, 11, 13, and the screws and washers. Notice these screws are clearly marked with a dot as JIS. I had thought those didn't come onto the scene until the 80's, but actually I believe all of the screws on these Hondas are JIS.


I found eight of these little parts(23) after my first build up attempt.


I couldn't find any good explainations in any manuals, but looking at the parts diagram I think this is correct and they need go in close to the first of this build-up.


This is 16, 4, and 22. I didn't take these apart so I shouldn't need a new snap ring.


That assembly lays right in here.(The rollers(23) should still be here in this picture, too.)


The steel plate with the fingers(7) goes on next.(The rollers(23) should still be here in this picture, too.)

F
riction plate(6). These aren't great, but runnable for now.


Steel plate with knotched ears(9).




Another friction plate(6).



Four new springs(12), because I lost one tearing it down.


Springs(12) go onto the fingers of 7.




Steel with holes(8). This piece is not pretty but runnable.




Retaining ring(14) holds it together.



Flip it over and put it on the crank.That's a good stopping point for today.