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Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Big-little Motorcycle Clock

So I about have to run a clock on my Kawasaki, because I commute on it. I have been running little spot clocks, but they aren't so good. Any nasty rain storm and they will need a battery and they might work again. So I saw this "Stainless Steel Super Glow Motorcycle Handlebar Clock" on Ebay. It looked decent for $17.95. The only down side is the shipping is from Hong Kong and takes a little bit. The next surprise was how huge this thing is. My usual broken spot clock on the right. The grid is one inch squares for scale.

This thing is way to big to mount where I usually mount my clocks.

It's going to need to go right here.

The design is pretty neat.  There is a a fully enclosed clock with an outer casing to mount it. This design should be more robust than the dot clocks for sure. The clock comes with a bar mount that will do 7/8, 1, or 1 1/4 bars, but I won't be using that.

This is the short screw supplied for the handlebar clamp.

I figured a longer screw would be possible and a lot better. A trip to ACE hardware and I came home with this one.

I picked up the proper drill for the job, too.

Cover the tank first, then pull off the risers and bars and just lay them on the tank.

A precise job would have pulled the top triple, measured for center and used a drill press. However, this is redneck machine shop. Eye ball the position.

Center punch it.

Center drill it.

Now this is serious redneck machine shop. To make sure you're close to square in both directions, have a helper(big thanks to my wife) hold one ruler and you can hold another and drill away.

Tap that hole.

Test fit the screw.

Lock tight that screw and mount the outer housing.

Make sure this set screw is pointed to where you can get the clock out easily later.  The clock has to be out to set the time on it.

Mount the clock.

Really easy to see for sure.

It really glows, too.

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Crossbones Springer brake rotor and fender install

Well, JamesD came through with a rotor, so got that taken care of. Blue loctite and the proper torque.

So I didn't seem to get the hardware for the fender when I bought the front end. The HD part numbers comes in 10 packs. So I went to ACE to match something up; 1/4-20 stuff is good to go. Of course they were out of hex drive(Allen) panheads in stainless, so I bought the crosshead(Phillips).

There is also suppose to be a backer plate shaped like the clean part of the underside of the fender. I don't have that, but Daniel says that regular washers are probably better anyway.

Well, it's on now with loctite. I'll be damned if there isn't a huge crease on this dumb fender that I have never noticed before now. I guess it matches the rest of the sheet metal on this bike.

Now to get the wheel and rotor on. I wasn't familiar with this style of brakes, but the inside pad is truly fixed. This bolt and cover comes off.

Here's the inside pad.

C-clamp the piston in and you'll find the rest of the brake fluid that you thought had leaked out the the open end of the brake line already. Oops.

Inner pad and keep go back in.

Put the inner pad bolts back in and it's open enough to slip the caliper over the rotor. I'm calling this front end on and together. I just need a new line, filled and bled, for the brake to be functional.

Saturday, April 22, 2017

Finishing the Speed Dealers Customs Switchbox installation

It's time to make the connections on these switchboxes.

Yes, I am always doing things the hard way and learning what would be easier next time. So I bought 16 gauge wire and should have done 20 gauge. I'm trying to do the solder connections on the bike by myself. I'm doing a mechanical connection and solder connection with one wire that is too big. Next time, do the connections on the bench with smaller wire and better holding tools or some help.

Be sure to put the shrink wrap on the wire before soldering the joint.(That's an old lesson.)

Man this was tough and slow.

Pull the shrink wrap down.

It's always a good idea to do a buzz box continuity check on a switch once you've finished soldering the wires.

 Next lesson, don't make straight joints, I really don't like the way those will rub inside the bars. ugh.

Tried to save this switch, but getting the solder flowing and the mechanical joint apart by myself just wasn't happening. Luckily, I picked up spares of all the switches when the local Radio Shack closed up and had everything on clearance.

Fresh switch soldered up.

Shrink wrapped.

Bad picture, but I used liquid tape to cover anything the shrink wrap didn't.

The brake light connections should be easier using the Kawasaki master cylinder and switch.

Simple, like crimp and solder.

Shrink wrap.

More shrink wrap to make it less orange.

Well, this wasn't exactly thought out all the way. So I am using the Kawasaki Vulcan controls. I am a tad concerned that the customization on the clutch lever might fail. I had thought no big deal, just carry a stock style shovelhead lever with the rest of the spares. Well, the Kawasaki clutch perch is a one piece clamp and the flush mount switch boxes don't really lend themselves to quick road side swap. A roadside rig up is still possible though.

Luckily for me, Lummy showed up to help and educate me on doing the left side switches. He said don't worry about threading the wire through the hole on the tabs. Thin the wire as I had done on the right side.

Tin the wires.

So you get something like this.

Tin the terminals.

Something like this.

Now just heat the wire and terminal and everything will stick.

Cut off the extra wire. This is not as mechanically strong, but you shouldn't be yanking on the wires for the most part.

Slide up the shrinkwrap, and paint everything with the liquid tape. (Lummy doesn't slow down for pictures.)

Same process for the horn button.

Left side switches good to go. About a hour for all this work with Lummy compared to like 3 hrs for my solo work on the right side switch.

Continuity checks for all the switches in every position.

Blue loctite on all the little nuts.

Add some extension to the voltmeter wires.

I got the headlight connected to the switch. The new set up means a mess of wire connections around the top tree instead of between the tanks. I'm going to have to clean that up a bit. Then I ran out of spade terminals before I could finish up the wires, so moved on to work on the front brake and fender.