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Saturday, October 30, 2010

Clutch and front brake lines

Route and measure the stock front brake line. Looks like I need about 3 1/2 more inches.


Remember this post about the custom lines? I had the brake line built to match...


but put this on the other end. It is a touch narrower than the stock eye, but it works. So next time I want black cover stainless lines, I will use these ends and the extra long shrink wrap from Steve's wholesale, but this will work for this build.


Clutch line installed...


and routed.



I used all new banjo washer and torqued everything per the book.


Then I tightened the piss out of the AN-3 fittings.




Fill and bleed both lines. Like this. http://gadgetjq.com/hydraulic_bleed.htm Pat fills and I bled.




With the clutch line done, the cover goes on, unless the fitting is in the way and you have to loosen and reroute it a bit.

Shift levers on.


Floorboard on.


I'd throw the stock tank on and go for ride except the battery is bad and I won't have any more blowing money for two more weeks.

Finishing the back end

Okay, we got a painted fender, thanks to Panhead Pat, rattlecan extraordinaire. I used this, http://www.zero-rust.com/ I like it. Looks like a semi flat primer, but holds out moisture.



Run the taillight wires.


Yep, too short, but I knew that.


Cut the wires between the clips and add 18 inch extensions.


The red, black, and green are the same for both lights, so I'll wire them together and I have the correct colors.


Glad I have an 18 inch ruler to measure with.


Orange and yellow are turnsignals. I didn't have the colors on hand, so white and blue will do. Just so I will know they are different and test them to check that the side is correct.


The wrap keeps falling out of the back of the light so a zip-tye had to be used to keep it in place.


Perfect.


Cover the rest of the new wires.


Ready to go again.

Time to mount the fender.


Feed wire through a grommet.


You have to be kidding me! The license plate holes on my taillight bracket are too narrow for my tag! I can fix that, but crap.


Fender on the bike.



Now to fix this tag holder. The whole light set-up has to come off the bike, the all together wiring(that I was so proud of) means I have to work around the lights and wires.

Getting there.


Clean it up.


Good to go.


Wired up, kind of a mess, but I'm tuck it in after I get a new battery, because this one just quit on me.


On to mounting the bag.


Behind the strut and the bolt goes through a hole.


The back bolt needs a new hole.


All bolted up.

Get this flap out of the way.


That should protect the back of the bag, too.


A few more zip-tyes and the bag and fender are done.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Frontend done

Nothing really worth a how-to today. Finished the spotlight wires, put on the headlight, torqued everything, put on the mirrors. Really coming together. Needs a front brake line built and installed, clutch line installed, tins painted, and taillight.









Saturday, October 16, 2010

Almost wired

Okay here's the bar on the bike for mock up. I thought the chrome would look good on the light trim bezels, but those are getting the aluminum powdercoat after I get it all figured out and get another paycheck.


The wires for the marker lights are of course too short and the bullet connectors are too big.


So I got these from Radio Shack and they should to the trick.


They need cleaned up a bit.


This is a bit tedious, but I only need to do it six times.

More rosin and solder.


After a fit check, I think they need to be shorter to fit inside the shrink wrap on the stock connectors. No problem.

All done.


Heat shrink for the spot light wires.


A new wire to feed the spotlight switch.


I'm using push mount wire ties on the lightbar. Anybody need some of these? I really can only use two, but I had to buy like 200.


But they work like they should. Leave those loose for now.


More shrinkwrap.


Nice and tidy. I wanted to hide the wires in the spotlight bar, but that was not going to happen given the size of the tube.


Next we have these wire ties.


They will mount to the bolts sticking out here. I had to get longer bolts. Put on the regular nuts, then the wire ties and then another nylon lock nut.

Oops, I need more shrinkwrap.

One ground wire is too short, too. So I'll piggy back it to another ground wire.


With the wires back in the headlight it's time to get to business. I'm putting a ground junction on bolt and nut in the bucket. This is the hardwired ground to connect the rest of the ground to, because I doubt a body ground will work with all the powdercoat.


Marker light connections.


New connection from the headlight "on" wire to the switch for the spotslights.


I like these connectors with a double spade terminal.


Marker lights seem to work.... but the left one is giving me problems and acting sporactic.


Ground was loose. I don't think you are supposed to take these apart so many times.


Easy enough fix. Rosin the wire and resolder, no extra solder needed.(I'm using the clip as heat sink so the grommet and wrap don't get too hot.)



I put it back together and still had problems and messed with it some more and started popping fuses. Yep, shorted one contact wire and almost broke off the contact tip. I couldn't find any contact tip pieces so I bought a new pigtail. Of course both contacts will need to be replaced, because the holes in the bases are different.

No pictures of how I did it, because it took two hands and my wife's two hands to make it work. I cut the contact with a tiny bit of wire off the pig tail. Stripped the wire and applied rosin. Then I presoldered that wire. I rosined the wire on the bike and then held the presoldered wire next to the bike wire and heated it until solder flowed between them and then I moved the iron. Amazingly that seemed to work.


That's alot of bare wire so I shrink wrapped them, but that was too fat for the base go back over. So I had to cut the wrap off. So I figured I would try liquid electrical tape. I can't remember what I bought this for, but it was still new in the package in my tool box.


Looks good and if this fix actually works, I will be impressed with myself. It calls for 4 hours to dry, seems conservative, but I'm tired of this nonsense today.