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Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Bigtwin Oil Pump Check Ball

Bigtwin Harley's will sump a bit a especially after sitting a bit, but this much is way too much. The check valve in the oil pump is a ball and spring, item 11 and 12 on this diagram. I read about this fix. It looked good, but I didn't want to take off the pump. If replacing the ball and spring doesn't fix it, I will try lapping the seat. Clamp off the gravity feed. Remove the inside cap. Here's the cap and spring out. You would think that a steel ball in an aluminum hosing would come out easily with a magnet on a stick, but that didn't work. The oil around the ball wouldn't let the ball out that easy. I has to use the mighty vac to get it out. It also helped to get any crud that may be in there hanging the valve open. The ball had a nice wear mark from the seat so hopefully the new ball and spring will fix the problem.

17 comments:

  1. Check this post, too. http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot.com/2013/08/more-big-twin-oil-pump-check-balls.html

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  2. Thanks I needed that - Same problem - and this engine was suppose to be rebuilt ! Ha !

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  3. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  4. Check your Relief Valve next to it at the pump to see if you have one installed. The bike I bought, a '76 Glide, puked oil after it set sometimes overnight, sometimes not and then I checked the Relief Valve and saw that I didn't have one. Well, it helped having one. Still pukes, just not as bad.

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  5. What is the screw 24 on the parts graphic?

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  6. Pastor that's the rear chain oiler adjustment screw

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  7. As simple as this turned out to be there is an amazing lack of information on the topic. I just ordered the parts I need and hopefully the breather "puking" will be done or at least be minimized. Thanks

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  8. Thank you very much for the sharing! COOL.. ball valve manufacturer usa

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  10. Demagnetize everything that touches the ball/spring/etc, including your tools, as microscopic metal debris will otherwise accumulate on the checkball(s) and result in oil slowly gravity feeding from tank to sump. Use brass drift (not too hard!) to seat ball(s). Demag is easy if you have an old growler from an autoelectric shop...

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  11. This is very educational content and written well for a change. It's nice to see that some people still understand how to write a quality post!
    valve manufacturer

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  12. This is very educational content and written well for a change. It's nice to see that some people still understand how to write a quality post! http://anixusa.com/check-valve

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  13. Yup, some very good info in here and like the numbers on the link for the different years. Have an '81 and will be replacing the ball and spring, and reseating, and or lapping in the seat as she does the excited pissing as I like to call it as she is a JYD :-) My '76 never did this.
    The other item looking at doing is replacing the relief vlv plunger and spring. So far, with J&P helping with the part numbers have for the plunger 26400-82 and a J&P number of 740-619 For the relief vlv spring I have 26207-83 and a J&P # 740-432. Although the J&P catalog says it wont fit, but that was the part number the tech gave.

    Thanks for the info and hope mine may help as well.

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    1. Wanted to add, for a set of the top caps/plugs the J&P number is 740-663

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  14. I am having this same problem removed the plug and no ball valve I can feel the seat where the ball should sit. Anyone every seen this?

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  15. I just went to change the ball & spring in my evo but there was no ball so I put one in,now the oil light stays on but the oil pressure is good WTF

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