Tuesday, July 13, 2010
but I already broke the pull cable, so I ordered a new stock one to be bent, but the one that came in was wrong. Someone had repackaged a different cable in the package of the cable I needed. So the folks at the dealership helped me out with a set of used Nomad cables for free. The Nomad cables route differently and are actually like 6 over compared to the Classic's cable. I had to route them over the tree and can't decide if I like them or not, but free and working is a okay for now. I can get a stocker and bend it later, if I want to.
Also the clutch line is short. It's rideable for now, but it will need to be about 6 over when I buy my covered stainless lines. The front brake line is fine though.
I ran about twenty miles with the new bars and I like them. The ergo's with these 12 inch apes are about the same as the shovelhead with 16 inch apes. I haven't figured that out yet.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Monday, July 5, 2010
Red loc-tite here.
Grade 8 flange bolts, locking flange nuts, star lock washers.
Clears everything, but won't fold down all the was because the bolt is like one thread to long.
These peg rubbers are all chalky, but the wire brush helped out.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
So I put a bigger battery in it and I thought it was a bad ground so I fixed that.
Last Saturday the bike died on the road again, but I pulled the headlight fuse and it went home just fine.
So we're back to headlight problems and voltage issues.
I have been using the old harley push button to ground the VW Hi-Lo latching relay. I'm not sure if the relay is sticking or the button is sticking, but neither will be a problem in the future.
I bought one of these switches from Radio Shack. Rated for 10 amps at 125 VAC, so a 6 amp high beam at 12 VDC shouldn't be a problem. The center position is off, so I can kickstart the bike without the headlight on. Also if I something else is causing my issues then I can turn off the light without pulling a fuse.
Solder the wires to the switch.
Here a little info on how I do electrical connections on a bike. I take the insulation off the connector, then lightly crimp the connection on to a stripped wire that has rosin on it already. Then I solder the connection on and tug check it once cools a bit.
Then some shrink wrap.
The switch is installed and works.
Here's the ground for the voltage gauge.
Here's the voltage gauge on the dash. I'm lucky that the old relay set-up has an extra power connection right where I need it.
Here's the hub cap in black and the rim in blasted aluminum.
Here's the reservoir cover on the bike.
Fender struts in black.
Here's a good picture of the powdercoated engine parts.
Dash nacelle in black. I think the switch plate will eventually get the aluminum finish, too.
I just need to chrome everything else on the bike.
I used extra fine steel wool to clean the spokes. This may have dulled the chrome a bit, but that's still a part of the look I'm going for.
Second set(still wrong)
The boy helps a bit.
This should have been my first clue, I couldn't get the spokes to tighten for a long time.
Wheel is finally tight, but look at this. This ain't right.
The spokes should look like this. What my buddy J. calls cross three pattern, not a cross two like I built. I'm glad I still had a good example and pictures, too. I had checked both of them before my first try, but still screwed it up.
With the first set in, the second set crosses three, like this.
I got this first side done. Then the other side looked like this. CRAP, CRAP, CRAP! The spokes on the other side still in the hub, jacked up the powdercoat a bit. At least on the left side and rough is the look for this bike.