This should about all of the pages of links.
I helped Bierkan work on this 750 for a while. Here's all the posts about that.
750 SOHC Honda - Bring Out the Imp
Here's my posts about working on the mini-van. The heater hose Y-fitting fix is my most popular post of all time and still draws the most hits weekly.
2008 Dodge Grand Caravan Repairs
Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Monday, September 29, 2014
Shovelhead Rear End Re-do. Part 4: New chain and swap a rear brake line
I got the correct size tire on and adjusted the chain for the new 46 sprocket. The adjustment was pretty huge.
And the chain is junk, too.
The wheel moved back so far that my swingarm converted to rigid caliper bracket won't work either.
Time for a new chain and a reset. Bring the axle almost all the way forward. I don't want to go all the way because I may end up with the 48 back in it.
The brake stay and caliper all work together again.
New chain.
Throw it on and see how much I don't need.
Break it.
Looking good. Add the master link.
Wow! Really? The rear brake line doesn't fit now? That doesn't make a lick of sense.
I have two lines with a pressure switch in between, so I could change the long piece or the short piece. I think this line from my spare parts bin is a bit longer than the long piece that I'm running.
I didn't know for sure until I took it off the bike, but luckily it's just long enough to work well.
Success. I need to fill and bleed the system and ziptie the floppy parts of the line to the frame.
I got a new front tire on it today, too. I need to verify my axle and chain alignment and torque and pin the rear axle nut and the rear end refresh will be complete.
And the chain is junk, too.
The wheel moved back so far that my swingarm converted to rigid caliper bracket won't work either.
Time for a new chain and a reset. Bring the axle almost all the way forward. I don't want to go all the way because I may end up with the 48 back in it.
The brake stay and caliper all work together again.
New chain.
Throw it on and see how much I don't need.
Break it.
Looking good. Add the master link.
Wow! Really? The rear brake line doesn't fit now? That doesn't make a lick of sense.
I have two lines with a pressure switch in between, so I could change the long piece or the short piece. I think this line from my spare parts bin is a bit longer than the long piece that I'm running.
I didn't know for sure until I took it off the bike, but luckily it's just long enough to work well.
Success. I need to fill and bleed the system and ziptie the floppy parts of the line to the frame.
I got a new front tire on it today, too. I need to verify my axle and chain alignment and torque and pin the rear axle nut and the rear end refresh will be complete.
Saturday, September 27, 2014
Event and Trail 70 and 90 Pages
More topical pages I've put together. I have links to all my Just Kickers and Shovelfests coverage in the Rallies section.
Destinations, Rallies, Shows, Rides, etc.
Honda CT70 - Trail 70 and CT90 - Trail 90 Related Posts
Destinations, Rallies, Shows, Rides, etc.
Honda CT70 - Trail 70 and CT90 - Trail 90 Related Posts
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
Vulcan and Shovelhead Build Related Links
These pages I built mostly for my own reference. They are about my 1500 Vulcan "J*Panhead" and Shovelhead "Mama Tried" bike builds and ongoing things. I doubt anyone will copy my work, but a little inspiration can be helpful.
1500 Vulcan "J*Panhead" Build Related Page
1500 Vulcan "J*Panhead" Build Related Page
Shovelhead "Mama Tried" Build Related Page
Sunday, September 21, 2014
Shovelhead Rear End Re-do. Part 3: GMA A Caliper Rebuild/Rework
As always, this post has some proven things in it and some things that may only have "seemed like a good idea." I'm sure someone will email me and tell me why all of this won't work.
I lost all the fluid out of my rear brakes twice within the last month or so. I did a new set of pads, o-rings, and bleed nipple the first time. The second time I realized how warped and messed up the rotor was. It was clear the piston had cocked, too.
I opened the caliper halves and noticed these rub spots from the pad's backings.
All sides were a couple of thousands deep and a bit rough,
So I decided it couldn't hurt anything to file those smooth and flat again.
With some patience and work the line starts to disappear.
I got about all I could on both ends of the outboard side. A little bit was left, but that would be a bunch more filing.
Now to the inboard side. Same rubs, but the pins are in the way of the file.
These are basic roll pins, so removal in hard.
A little work with a roll pin punch and hammer.
Results of the file work.
I removed this elbow and cleaned the crud out of the threads.
I put the pin back in, but that was dumb. I should clean those up, too. Replacement pins are available, but I can't seem to find a source.
Back out.
Clean them up.
Still some rub spots, next time I will find new pins for sure.
That's interesting. An 86 vibrapeened right there. I have never noticed that before.
Replace the pins.
Tape the elbow.
Clean everything to get the filings off.
Pop the pistons out.
Pull the o-rings.
A and B kit is the same thing with a little o-ring you won't need.
Get the new o-rings in and I figure I would go ahead and lube them with DOT 5 and install the pistons.
Find the o-ring that fits this counterbore and use it. The other one is for the other style caliber.
Grease.
Just the roll pins nothing else.
Looking good.
Pad
Second pad.
Outboard body.
Again I talked with Ed about this and he's correct, the piston should be taller. When the pads and rotor get thin, the piston push out too far and get cocked, then jam or dump the fluid. There is a lot of slop between pads and rotor with the piston pushed all the way in. Note: the elbow points out a bit to help route the brake line off the tire a bit.
My plan is to use shims between the pad backing and pistons. That should keep the piston deeper in the bore. My initial thought was to knock the friction material off a set of pads and use the backing for a shim. Before I put the work into cleaning off the friction, I did a quick mock-up. The backing is about 0.125 inch and that is too thick.
So Plan B is shims from .063 Aluminum stock I have on had. The old pads will still be the pattern though.
Dye-chem.
Scribe it out.
Transfer punch.
Drill and oblong it a bit.
About right.
Deburr the holes.
Cut out the shape.
About right.
Sand a bit to round off the corners and edges.
I built two of course and did a fit check. One was tight, but a little work...
And it was good to go.
New stack up with shims behind the pads.
Fits tight on the rotor, but still have some room to move. If I had the correct new tire, I would have this thing together. I still need to inspect the master cylinder to make sure it's releasing pressure properly, too.
I lost all the fluid out of my rear brakes twice within the last month or so. I did a new set of pads, o-rings, and bleed nipple the first time. The second time I realized how warped and messed up the rotor was. It was clear the piston had cocked, too.
I opened the caliper halves and noticed these rub spots from the pad's backings.
All sides were a couple of thousands deep and a bit rough,
So I decided it couldn't hurt anything to file those smooth and flat again.
With some patience and work the line starts to disappear.
I got about all I could on both ends of the outboard side. A little bit was left, but that would be a bunch more filing.
Now to the inboard side. Same rubs, but the pins are in the way of the file.
These are basic roll pins, so removal in hard.
A little work with a roll pin punch and hammer.
Results of the file work.
I removed this elbow and cleaned the crud out of the threads.
I put the pin back in, but that was dumb. I should clean those up, too. Replacement pins are available, but I can't seem to find a source.
Back out.
Clean them up.
Still some rub spots, next time I will find new pins for sure.
That's interesting. An 86 vibrapeened right there. I have never noticed that before.
Replace the pins.
Tape the elbow.
Clean everything to get the filings off.
Pop the pistons out.
Pull the o-rings.
A and B kit is the same thing with a little o-ring you won't need.
Get the new o-rings in and I figure I would go ahead and lube them with DOT 5 and install the pistons.
Find the o-ring that fits this counterbore and use it. The other one is for the other style caliber.
Grease.
Just the roll pins nothing else.
Looking good.
Pad
Second pad.
Outboard body.
Again I talked with Ed about this and he's correct, the piston should be taller. When the pads and rotor get thin, the piston push out too far and get cocked, then jam or dump the fluid. There is a lot of slop between pads and rotor with the piston pushed all the way in. Note: the elbow points out a bit to help route the brake line off the tire a bit.
My plan is to use shims between the pad backing and pistons. That should keep the piston deeper in the bore. My initial thought was to knock the friction material off a set of pads and use the backing for a shim. Before I put the work into cleaning off the friction, I did a quick mock-up. The backing is about 0.125 inch and that is too thick.
So Plan B is shims from .063 Aluminum stock I have on had. The old pads will still be the pattern though.
Dye-chem.
Scribe it out.
Transfer punch.
Drill and oblong it a bit.
About right.
Deburr the holes.
Cut out the shape.
About right.
Sand a bit to round off the corners and edges.
I built two of course and did a fit check. One was tight, but a little work...
And it was good to go.
New stack up with shims behind the pads.
Fits tight on the rotor, but still have some room to move. If I had the correct new tire, I would have this thing together. I still need to inspect the master cylinder to make sure it's releasing pressure properly, too.
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