Getting to it. New camchains.
Start fishing.
Through the cylinder.
Put the guide back on.
Now the rear one.
This gear can go on.
Headgasket on.
Put the head on and fish the chain.
Put the head on and fish the chain.
OOOOPs! I forgot to put the studs back in the bottom side of the used heads. Off it comes.
These two.
Set 'em! Don't forget 'em.
Let's do the EPA block off plates while they're on the bench, too.
Now back to where we started.
Chain over the cam gear.
Okay time to time the chain to the crank. The books were a little goofy. The picture showed the lines on the gear even with head where you could read "F", but the book stated lopes up. The book pictures of the rotor marks and the case marks didn't match the book either. The lettered marks were where you could see them with the sidecover on. After playing with the crank. We found lopes down and the proper rotor marks for the case mark.
Lube the journals.
Okay time to time the chain to the crank. The books were a little goofy. The picture showed the lines on the gear even with head where you could read "F", but the book stated lopes up. The book pictures of the rotor marks and the case marks didn't match the book either. The lettered marks were where you could see them with the sidecover on. After playing with the crank. We found lopes down and the proper rotor marks for the case mark.
Lube the journals.
Put the adjusters into the rockers.
There is no gasket between rocker box and head because they are matchined as set. Guy Mobley at http://www.shermscycleproducts.com/ recommended permatex 29132 to seal the rocker box top and the cam plug.
Smear it on with a thin coat and let it get tacky.
Put it together.
Torque time, follow the book sequence.
Looking good.
Looking good.
Ready for the top. I used the permatex to glue the rubbers in the cover.
Line it up, so you don't mess up the gasket.
There is a torque wrench attached to this speed handle.
Forget to put the oil line on 'til now. Still doable, but would have been easier before the top went on.
Put the spark plug tube back in.
Okay this is when you time when roll the crank 305 degrees and put the rear cam in and you're done with the top end, but of course it couldn't be that simple. We rolled it and when just about got to the mark the front chain made some funny popping noises. "Did it jump some teeth?" "Don't know, tear it apart and redo it to be sure."
Let's put the camchain tensioner in after we time it this time. That's the wart halfway down the front cylinder.
Sorry, picture quality and quantity go downhill late in the day, especially after a major re-do. Here's the motor with the cams in and the rocker boxes on.
Rear tensioner going in.
Both covers on.
Looks like a motor. Time for a beer.
I forgot to mention that the compression releases didn't go back in.
ReplyDeleteI think we determined that there were crankcase timing marks and inspection hole timing marks on the rotor.
ReplyDeleteFigure out the marks with or with the alternator covers on. Turn the motor crank counterclockwise and hold a long piece of stiff wire in the front sparkplug hole against the piston. Turn slowly and you should be able to find top dead center for the front piston. That should be where the front mark shows up in the inspection hole or line up with the crankcase mark.
I believe the letter with rocker split line on the cam gear goes up and everything will be right with the world. Lopes should be all down at TDC of the firing point, i.e. all valves closed so all expansion of the burning fuel shoves the piston down.
Now turn the motor the proper degrees around to find the rear mark. You may want to cycle through the motor a few times to before you do it for real to really know the marks you're looking for.
Be careful not pass the rear mark when you're for real. It's bad to back and I believe you to need pass the rear a second time and actually set it the third time, if you miss the first. I'm not positive on that, but pretty that's right.