Last time the countshaft washer(16) I had on hand was too think to fit and we still need .007 to 0.010 inch clearance. The washer I had was 0.110 inch thick so I picked up a 0.105 and 0.100 inch just to be safe.
So we back to getting the countershaft through the roller bearings and gears. And it turns out that the 0.110 inch spacer gives a nice 0.010 clearance as expected.
Get the mechanic wires out now.
Here are the countershaft nut(1), new countershaft locktab(4), and countershaft end plate(6). Note the flat section of the locktab and plate.
The countershaft has a flat, too. You need to position that flat about there.
Because the end plate needs to but against the mainshaft bearing retaining plate as shown.
Add locktab.
Add and tighten nut.
When you tighten that nut the countershaft will pull into the case and the o-ring will find its home.
The torque spec is 55 ft*lb, but something doesn't feel right.
Yep. We pulled the threads on the old nut.
$2.99 part has us at work stoppage again.
I would like to tell everyone that in a moment of genius I had an epiphany, but that's not true. We had said swear word and given up on progress for the even. Then I was organizing parts for future work when remember that the countershaft locktab is the same part as the kickshaft locktab. Then I looked as sure enough the kickershaft nut is also the same as the countershaft nut.
So we used it.
It didn't blow out, but we stopped at 50 ft*lb.
Bend the locktab.
Now thoroughly clean the grease and oil from the o-ring end of the countershaft.
And black silicone the heck out of it.
Let that set up and go to the store for more parts.
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