Handlebar prep for internal wiring

I learned how to do internal wiring handlebars from a great Bikernet.com tech article, but I can't seem to find it now.

Bars back off the bike again and taped to protect the powder coat and for marking. I also marked the bar center to help up it on in the middle.


Drain the front brake and master cylinder. I need to have new line built. The stock length is plenty, but will do stainless line covered with rubber to match the clutch line.


Right side controls on.


Here's the left grip. It's for a late model harley so it has lip that should bolt into the control housing.

The lip is needs to go. It's stiff plastic so the hacksaw make quick work of it.

Perfect.

Left controls on. Those $5 swapmeet grips are great.

I zip tied the wires to the bars so I could check the length of the wires once they are ran inside the bars.

Bars back on the bike. The wires are barely long enough to work, but the plugs will be behind the headlight bucket and not in it. I don't like that and given a choice I would rather solder extensions than de-pin the plug. I figure 6 inch extensions will fit the bill.

Mark my top holes.

I marked the handlebar clamp and a place for the bottom slot. There are too many wires on this deal, but I'm planning on keeping the safety stuff and turn signals, so they have to stay.

The #3 uni-bit is great because you can go all the way to the 1/2in hole and not hit the other side of 1 inch bar.

Now make the two holes into a slot with a dremel and cut off wheel.

Getting there.

Now to get rid of the sharp edges so the wires won't get cut. (I need a smaller sanding drum.)

I used a round file and deburring tool, too.

If you bleed doing this, keep working on it.

Now the top holes.

I used regular bit for a pilot hole because my center drills were in the garage and I was in the workshop.

Uni-bit again.

Okay.

Work over the edges the same way, but can't use your fingers so I paper towel can help you find the sharp spots.

Looking good. Now do the other side.