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Thursday, July 13, 2017

Gooden Tight Crossbones Riser Bushings Install

I hate the wiggle in the stock rubber dampened bushings of this Crossbones springer, especially running 16 inch ape hangers. So I ordered this kit off of eBay. The Crossbones with the 16 inch front tire is the same as the FLS springers, right?

I will spare you the details of figuring everything out, but no, the risers on the Crossbones and FLS springers are not the same. Notice the difference in height between the bottom hex section of the stock on the left and the FLS kit on the right.

This results in a nice tight riser, but look at all this ugliness hanging out the base of the risers. UGH.

Shopping online is not much help either. I found two different pictures for sure, but the fitment listings didn't seem to match with the correct "file" photograph. So I finally ordered by fitment and hoped for the best. Even the Alloy Art website wasn't real helpful. Basically, I discover there are three kits. One for FXS, FLS, and Crossbones; part numbers GT-FXS, GT-FLS, and GT-CBS respectively.

The packaging for the new kit confirmed this nice cut-away of the risers shown. I am still a bit amazed by these differences on the risers for each of the front ends.

Top clamp off first, of course.

These nuts next.

The old spongy rubber bushings have to come out.

Studs off next.

From my previous trials with these things, I learned to only remove one at a time. The tapers aligned everything and the top tree will shift a bit with both of them removed. It's not impossible to get things back inline, but leaving one in is easier. Unlike the stock studs, a regular 1 inch socket can be used on these.

I wasn't sure on the torque, I think I did 30 ft*lb.

Both sides done.

Bottom hard bushings go on next.

Risers on. I blew the pictures on the next steps, but the top hard bushing and sleeved metal bushing go on. Then the bolts and torque them to the same as the tapered fitting underneath.

Even when tight the risers will move easily enough to align to fit the bars.

Caps and bolts. These are easy to strip so I went gently tight and I will have to verify the exact torque sequence later.

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