Yep. The front brakes are grinding, First thing to do is get the front end off the ground. I use a floorjack under the A-arm mounts and then jack stands under the regular scissor jack spots under the frame. DO NOT work on a vehicle while only using a hydraulic jack, if a seal fails that jack and car are going down.
Take the wheel off.
Furthermore, I throw the wheel under the body, too. Your having a bad day if you drop a car, but this might help it from being worse.
Next, find a 21mm wrench or socket, for some reason all have is a deep socket and 12 point combo wrench in this size.
Two bolts hold the caliper holder on.
Very tight, but I don't have an impact socket and driver to fit where I need, so big hammer it is.
Once it's loose you don't need a hammer.
I have this short bucket ready to hold the caliper, so it doesn't hang from the hose.
Here's the second bolt holding things together.
Off the car and safely held.
The rotor should pull right off, but of course mine was rusty and needed a few good whacks with the hammer. The pads will pull right out of the caliper as well.
Here's the metal to metal part.
Douse it with brake cleaner.
No fancy tool to get the piston compressed, just a 6 inch C-clamp.
There is an inboard and outboard pad.
The difference is not as obvious as the illustrations, but the clips and tabs are a bit different.
The boots and guide pins are looking good and still lubed so that's good.
Pop out and replace all four clips. There are differences between the inboard and outboard on these, too.
Lube up the tabs on the pads.
Clean the goo off the new rotor.
Install the rotor.
Install the caliper holder with the two large bolts.
Torque to 125 ft*lbs. Yes that's a lot, but by the book.
Install wheel and tire. Snug the lugnuts in a criss-cross pattern.
Then replace the brakes on the other side.
Put the van on the ground and fully torque the lugnuts to 100 ft*lbs.
Pump the brake pedal until it gets hard before you try and move the vehicle.